Fabulous run to Palm Springs

Last evening the run to Bakersfield seemed to take forever. We left I5 to head east on Rt. 46 through Wasco, Calif. It's a two-lane road that runs almost dead straight through immense fields of . . . something agricultural. We couldn't see a thing, though the moon was almost full and bright. Some orchards, some other stuff. There were virtually no houses (unlike most farm country) and only the town of Wasco on the way.

Headlights in the distance, switch off your brights, they pass, brights back on. Of course there was also the SMELL. We passed through what must have been the biggest FEED LOT ZONE in the hemisphere. Phew.

We then hit US 99, which is a freeway here, and barreled south to Bakersfield. Arrived about 9:30, found the Marriott Springhill Suites and crashed. Nice place, almost new, neat and clean and cheap enough at $64. Plus breakfast. Outside, still some feedlot odor.

We left on Rt 58 up over the Sierra Nevadas toward Tehachapi. Parts of the mountains are truly spectacular, and reminded us of the country where they used to shoot Hollywood westerns. Head 'em off at the pass, boys! Trees, rocks and hills. Then we crossed into the desert. Lots of power-generating windmills, and the oaks gave way to Joshua trees, then to scrub growth. We rolled on to Kramer Junction and turned south on 395, which is two lanes and almost no passing. Had some of the whoop-de-doo hills I remember my dad zooming over in the old Nash.

This was desolate country. Nothing grew but the desert brush. Approaching Adelanto we spotted a sign that said "Coy -- gold fish. Small-medium-large. They need a home!"

A few miles south we merged onto I15, then climbed a gentle grade (the Astro does not enjoy pulling hills, especially with the trailer) until we crossed El Cajon Pass and headed down. This is a spectacular piece of highway.

Traffic tightened up as we got into the San Bernardino area but cleared out as we rolled toward Palm Springs. We got here around 3 p.m. Stopped at the visitor center, a great midcentury icon that used to be the Tramway gas station. But let's talk about the lodging!

From the road you would never know the Villa Royale was here. It takes up almost a block but the whole place is surrounded by walls and hedges. You park on the outside, walk through the gate and enter a kind of hidden paradise. There are two swimming pools, fountains, a four-diamond restaurant and perfect 10 martinis. Our room is comfortable and faces one of the pools, and has a private patio behind. We really lucked into this one. And breakfast is included!

Here are some pictures: the view of the mountains to the west, and the scene by the pool outside our room.